Fitting Led's into Figures

00 Gauge Photographer with long lens

 

The first step is to carefully cut away the top of the camera so that only the lens itself is in place. then using a 0.4mm drill a hole is made through the head.

Wires are then soldered to a T0402 bright white led. The wires are pushed through the hole in the head and the led is secured in please to make the shape of the camera body.

Once glue has dried it is then built up using a plastic putty to fine tune the shape and hide led except what we want to make the flash.

Using a very sharp knife a channel is then cut down the back of the figure and legs to the feet. The wires are secured into the channel and again plastic putty is used to hide the wires. When also dried the putty can be sculpted to blend to the shape of the figure.

Once dried it can be painted, weathered, and sealed with a varnish.

When installed some sort of control is needed to create the flash. This can be done via push button switch or dcc switch decoder. A resistor mut be installed to protect the LED

 

00 Gauge Photographer with short lens

 

The first step is to carefully cut away the top of the camera so that only the lens itself is in place.

The camera is not located close to the head to we need to use the arm to hide the wires. A 0.4mm hole is drilled through the body in line with the elbow. This means the wires are run down the arm and through the body. By taking time to locate them correctly and run against the arm when pained they are almost invisible.

A T0402 bright white LED is used to make the flash my mounting on top of the camera and fine sculpted with Putty.

Using a very sharp knife a channel is then cut down the back of the figure and legs to the feet. The wires are secured into the channel and again plastic putty is used to hide the wires. When also dried the putty can be sculpted to blend to the shape of the figure.

Once dried it can be painted, weathered, and sealed with a varnish.

When installed some sort of control is needed to create the flash. This can be done via push button switch or dcc switch decoder. A resistor mut be installed to protect the LED

 

 

00 Gauge Man with cigar/cigarette and newspaper.

 

This one is really tricky to do. Firstly, the cigarette is cut from the hands of the figure being careful to try and not damage the fingers.

A hole is then drilled through the armpit to the rear with a 0.22mm drill bit. At the back of the body this hole is widened with a 0.5mm drill bit to be able to insert the led. From this hole a channel is then cut down the body and legs to accept the led wires.

A Red T0402 LED is then mounted in the body after the wires secured in place putty is used to hide the wires and re sculpt the figure.

Next a length of 0.2mm fibre optic wire is inserted into the hole in the armpit and glue in place. the fibre optic is then located along the arm and into the position of the cigarette. By gluing into the hand with an instant contact adhesive the fibre optic wire can be shaped to follow the curvature and shape of the arm. Leave enough length on the fibre optic to trim it later after painting ideally 5 to 10mm longer than what you feel looks correct.

Now we can paint the figure. acrylic paint must be used to hide any glow from the body and the fibre wire.

After painting the figure and it has fully cured from the cigarette to the correct length. You must use a very sharp knife and get a clean cut. A rough edge to the optic will not produce a clear colour light.

 

 

 

00 gauge Peeing man

 

This one again is quite tricky. Start by drilling a 0.5mm hole through the penis area. A yellow T0402 led is then installed into the back of the model and channel run down the legs to the feet to hide the wires. Use putty to fill and reshape the legs. The legs on this figure are quite toned to take care around the knees and ankles as they are much thinner and can snap.

Next a 0.5mm fibre optic wire is inserted into the front to act as the flow of liquid. This is left at quite a long length to that the tip can be inserted into a baseboard for a realist glow without a light on the end of the wire. This also enable the final installation to achieve a bend in the wire to create a realist shape to the flow.

The figure can now be painted weathered and varnished. Two coats may be need to completely stop any light bleed.

A resistor Must be used to protect the Led by installing into the red wire. I find 1 or 10k works well but this completely depends on the control voltage being used.

 

Products used.

 

Citandel Green stuff – A modelling putty that is very versatile and easily worked. Once dried it can be sanded and accepts paints very well.

 

Citandel paints - Water based acrylics these are very good paints and only very small amounts are needed. The provide an excellent finish and the range of colours are superb. These paints have been designed purely for painting plastic figures and the stores that sell it will also offer excellent advice and tip on use.

 

Citandel agrax earthshade wash – This is a very thin water wash. Its nearer to a water than it is a paint however it is superb at finding details that you can’t see with the naked eye. For example creases in clothing or applied to hands and face it will find the texture in the print and help bring the details to life. Its excellent for weathering and can literally just be crudely splashed on and still give a great effect.

 

Humbrol Matt Varnish spray – this spray is very good for sealing the paint. It dries in seconds and also stops the paints from being to shiny when taking pictures of the figures.

 

T0402 LEDs - These LED’s produce excelling light but can be very fragile. Be careful when soldering as the heat can be enough to damage the LED.

 

Kindly sent in by Alan Thompson, figures with LED's Fitted are available for his Ebay Store click on link to see the range